The 42nd edition of Milano Unica went beyond a conventional seasonal launch this year. The Spring/Summer 2027 collections were, of course, on display; however, as one walked through the fairgrounds, what was truly felt was the return of concepts that the industry had long pushed into the background: raw materials, quality, expertise, and real value.
Held at Fiera Milano Rho from 20–22 January 2026, the fair stood out not only for its participation figures but also for the space it created for discussion.
A Clear Increase in European Participation
A +25% growth once again confirmed the fair’s reference power.
Milano Unica clearly demonstrated the European textile industry’s strong commitment to the event. In an edition featuring a total of 730 companies, the number of European exhibitors increased by 25% compared to the previous edition. A total of 585 companies took part in the Ideabiella, Moda In, and Shirt Avenue sections. Observatories and dedicated areas from Korea and Japan were among the elements completing the fair’s global balance. With the increased participation, the total exhibition area exceeded 25,000 square meters.
Calmer Figures After a Difficult Period
Data from the first nine months of 2025 indicate that contraction in the Made in Italy textile sector has not fully ended, but has slowed significantly. Total sales volume is expected to reach around €6.9 billion. The recovery observed in cotton and linen supports the phrase “cautious optimism,” frequently voiced by sector representatives. Wool, silk, and knitwear segments, however, continue to show weakness, although here too the pace of decline has slowed.
As China’s Impact Declines, Alternative Markets Come Forward
On the export side, China and Hong Kong together still rank first; however, double-digit declines were recorded in both markets. In contrast, markets such as the United States, Portugal, Morocco, Poland, and the United Kingdom have become more visible thanks to increasing volumes. During one-to-one meetings held at the fair, it was notable that many European manufacturers are reshaping their export strategies around these markets.
Rethinking the Concept of Luxury
One of the standout discussion topics at Milano Unica 42 was the redefinition of luxury. A common emphasis emerged in opening speeches and roundtable discussions: luxury starts once again with raw materials. It was frequently underlined that raw materials are a fundamental element of brand identity and reliability, while the downward shift in perceived value along the supply chain weakens quality and expertise in the long term.
MU COSMETIC: When Textiles Meet the Body
The MU COSMETIC trend area was one of the most heavily visited sections of the fair in this edition. Presented under the themes Natural, Shadows, and Sun, the Spring/Summer 2027 vision approached textiles not merely as a visual element, but as a surface in contact with the body. Natural fibers, breathable structures, technical jersey surfaces, and iridescent finishes revealed an approach shaped around comfort, coolness, and a second-skin effect.
It was clearly felt that the fair addressed not only today, but also the future of the industry. Education, expertise, and intergenerational knowledge transfer were among the shared themes of the discussions. The “invisible” yet decisive role of raw materials highlighted the need to rethink the entire chain, from communication to production.
More Than a Trend Fair
On-site observations and discussions with industry representatives show that Milano Unica is no longer merely a space where collections are exhibited. The fair is evolving into a platform where the industry openly conducts its internal debates and takes time to reflect on certain issues. Despite all challenges, the fair demonstrates that a cautious yet realistic optimism for 2026 and beyond is possible.
