1. INTRODUCTION
Today, fashion in the textile industry is frequently changing and it is difficult to keep up with its speed from time to time. Together with the change of fashion, the new design needs are born and thus some innovations are sought.
While the fabric is being produced in the weaving process, the pattern of the fabric surface is formed by connecting the warp and weft yarns in the specified order [1]. When a fabric is configured, it can be replaced or improved with different types of surface processing. Pattern, color and texture can be added to the fabric through such processes. Techniques can include printing, noose, fabric manipulation, beadwork and ornamentation [2]. Designs can be applied repetitive along the length of the fabric or placed in a certain part of the garment. The design is not has to be necessarily on the front or back of the garment. The fitting of the design on the body can be interesting and affects other design elements, like the placement of seams [3].
The results of the increasing need for innovation in denim designs are reaching challenging dimensions. One of these new designs has exceeded the limits of the design by using jacquard woven motif fabrics with features such as color and motif diversity, durability, ability to maintain form perfectly, or channel fabrics with thick and warm keeping feature and denim fabrics that are durable and have special ease of dyeing in different colors. This work was created from the project outputs codenamed 2020.BYKN.005 and combined with Jacquard Weaving and Denim Woven Fabrics, which were carried out within the Design Center of Baykan Denim Garment Joint Stock Company.
2. JACQUARD WOVEN FABRIC PATTERN DESIGN AND PRODUCTION METHODS
Technological developments followed throughout history have influenced the industry, it is a fact that textile weaving sector is also greatly affected. With the introduction of mechanization and mass production, traditional production methods have been replaced by industrial production techniques. At the end of various loom trials, a jacquard weaving loom was developed by Marie Joseph Jacquard and started to be used in the industry [4].
Jacquard is a mouthpiece opening system. Jacquard head consists of upper mortar/harness board, harness yarns, lower harness board, strength and springs, and the warp threads that should be above the mouthpiece opens during each weft performs this process thanks to the pattern loaded on the jacquard head. These movements of the pattern are transmitted to the solenoids and from there to the wraps tied to platinum. [5]. Figure 2.1 presents an image of a jacquard loom.
Figure 2.1. Jacquard Loom [6]
These looms provided an opportunity for mass fabric production and complex pattern designs at a wider range without too much need for manpower. In parallel, new design methods and tools have been developed.
In the design phase, the features of the countertops and the methods that are followed have an important place. While jacquard weaving designs can be developed in line with new sources of inspiration, as a result of analyzing jacquard fabrics, additionally it can be obtained by drawing the existing fabric pattern one-on-one.
Nowadays, computer-aided design (CAD) systems developed with different names, features and equipment are used in the pattern design of jacquard fabrics. These systems in addition to enable complex pattern designs to be made in a short time, helps to view jacquard fabric that will be produced with rich yarn and knitting options with 3D simulations [4].
"Jacquard tissues are basically large patterned tissues that are based on simple textures. Tissue types that cannot be touched in eccentric or shaft machines due to the excess of warp and weft yarn are woven in special jacquard machines". [9]
The widest, most complex patterns, pictures and large landscapes are obtained by jacquard mechanical mouth opening pattern, taking into consideration knitting and yarn features. Through this system, a separate movement mechanism is provided for each of the numerous warp and weft threads. The purpose of jacquard weaving mechanisms is based on the movement of warp threads one by one. This allows for infinite length patterning. [8]
The pattern prepared for the fabric intended to be produced on paper or in the computer design program for the jacquard machine is named "Jacquard Pattern". The pattern should be designed in accordance with the type and technique of the desired fabric. Color harmony and distribution of the pattern on the fabric surface are important in jacquard machines. [9]
The paper design process of jacquard woven fabrics consists of three main stages:
1. Pattern and color design;
2. Knitting and weaving structure design;
3. Design consisting of point paper drawing and card cutting, planning these processes require a good understanding of woven fabric structures and acquired skill. [8]
Arrangements are made by designing how the desired pattern will look on the fabric. How many of the report repetitions is wanted should be determined with the fabric sizes. It is essential to create pattern sizes on the fabric. It is important to carefully select the frequency of the cottises affecting pattern sizes in the lower mortar, warp frequency (in cm), weft frequency (in cm), warp and weft numbers. The pattern paper should be selected according to warp and weft frequency and report sizes. The pattern is enlarged on squared pattern paper to bring it to the desired size in the fabric. Their sizes are enlarged and transferred to a clean paper and warp knitting reports are prepared for coloring. The designed pattern is programmed according to the machine and the cartons are prepared. Then jacquard cartons are attached to the jacquard and the necessary changes are detected. The designed pattern is reported after the finishing process and the entire pattern appears on the fabric surface. [9]
3. CHANNEL FABRICS CLOTHING
Channel fabric is a type of fabric that has a thick structure with cotton. It is usually among the preferred fabric models in autumn and winter season. In this fabric type, a pattern is created by blending yarns in various colors besides it is called a multicolored fabric type. Generally, channel fabric types are preferred in vintage style dress models. All kinds of dresses made of channel fabrics are seen as a contemporary, cool and stylish design. [10]
Channel fabric is a coarse, woolly fabric with a soft, light, flexible texture that resembles cheviot or homespun, such as tweed fabric, but weaved more closely. Oftentimes it is weaved with a flat knitting, dimi or herringbone structure. The color effects on the yarn can be obtained by mixing the dyed wool before bending. [10]
It is generally used with many types of clothing. However, primarily channel fabric is preferred in coat types. It has a nature that can be comfortably used in winter and spring. Recently, it is the most preferred and produced type of fabric in our country and all over the world [7].
4. BAYKAN DENIM DESIGN CENTER JACQUARD AND CHANNEL FABRICS COMBINED DESIGN STUDIES
As in the past, today the textile sector is an active sector that constantly renews and develops due to its broad uses both in itself and with other sectors. This activeness has brought the textile sector the necessity for product diversity along with the need for design diversity. In textiles, designs are sometimes created by combining similar or contrasting fabrics in different ways.
In this study, new design ideas were developed as a result of the combination of jacquard or thick and warm-keeping channel fabrics, a type of fabric that has wide pattern possibilities and perfectly maintains its form, and denim fabrics that have a large place in the industry. These improved designs can also give a brand-new design flavor with the possibility of relocating the parts where fabrics are used. On the other hand, it is beneficial to reduce textile waste by selecting the fabrics to be used with the denim among the woven fabrics that are in waste state and a trend has been created with these designs.
People naturally want to get attention or be different from others. For this reason, they have a tendency to prefer clothes or products with unique designs. Our designs meet the need and also has provided some benefits. Within the scope of the study, in our designs;
1. Firstly, it is aimed to effectuate a new denim design trend and attract people\'s attention by using different kinds of woven fabric knitting together.
2. In order to create some benefit to the textile waste issue, which has recently emerged as an increasing global problem, it is planned to choose the fabrics from the waste fabrics to be used together with denim.
3. To be able to meet the needs of individuals by making conventional denim products more remarkable and preferable with original designs furthermore to develop our designs as Baykan Denim Design Center.
When evaluated from the innovative aspect of the study, the use of denim fabrics in a model together with other patterned woven fabrics increased the functionality of denim fabric. When it was evaluated as a design attribute, two different perspectives emerged.
Firstly designing the stance of denim fabric in the model, secondly the stance of other woven fabrics in the model was designed and two different fabrics were combined with each other and a new design was created.
5. RESULT
As a result of this study, which was designed to use classical denim products together with other types of fabrics, a wide range of design opportunities were offered to the denim clothing sector.The benefits obtained at the end of the study are as follows.
•The opportunity to utilize textile waste, which has become a global issue.
•In denim products designed with different fabrics, sewing is carried out after washing. During washing, the products are washed separately, which allows us a chance to prevent or correct the problems that may occur in the washing phase.
RESOURCES
[1] Georgian, B.H. 2010. Textile Material Information. (First Edition). Izmir: Current Publishing: 375, p. 373.
[2] Udale, J. 2014. Textile and Fashion in Fashion Design. (Cev. H. Güngör). Literature Publications: 700, Series of Fashion Design Basics: 002, p. 69.
[3] Sorger, R. and Udale, J. 2013. Fundamentals of Fashion Design. (Cev. Ç. Sirkeci). Literature Publications: 680, Series of Academic Foundations: 10, p. 90.
[4] Başaran, F.N. & Arslan, P. (2020). JACQUARD WEAVING PATTERN DESIGN AND TYPES OF RAPPORTS SAMPLE OF NEDGRAPHICS. Folklor Akademi Dergisi , PROF. DR. H. FERİHA AKPINARLI ARMAĞAN SAYISI , 94-115 .
[5] ÖZLEN ÖZMUTLU, B., (2010). Jacquard Fabric Design on Computer. Bursa: BTSO Education Foundation
[6]https://nonwoventechnology.com/itemadan-sinifinin-en-i%CC%87yisi-dokuma-yenilikleri/
[7] https://tekstilbilgi.net/sonil-chenille-kumas.html
[8] ÖZEN, S. – AKALIN, M. (2012). Weaving Technology, Istanbul
[9] Yüksel, E. 2020. Innovative Approaches in Jacquard Woven Fabric Design and Production, Master\'s Thesis,
[10] https://atillatekstil.com/tekstil-bilgilendirme-atolyesi/sanel-kumas.html
